Siena, Florence and Rome
To be invited to join a Fam trip organised by Kirker is a great honour. They are a prestigious company with many years experience in arranging holidays to many European and far away destinations. My trip started early with a BA flight to Pisa.
Apparently the tower doesn’t lean anymore, but we didn’t get the chance to find out for ourselves as we were promptly met by the handling agents and whisked away to our hotel in Siena, about 1 ½ hours away.
The Grand Continental Hotel is located in the heart of Siena, just a few steps from the Piazza Del Campo and the Duomo, in front of the Rocca Salimbeni in the pedestrian area of the city. It is a 5 star property comprising just 51 rooms and suites, all painstakingly renovated and restored with elegance. There are one or two bedroom suites, one of which is in the medieval tower, the Altana, with the living room on the upper level with breathtaking views over the city. Of course, I had to make do with a mere junior suite all to myself…shame I was too busy sightseeing and eating wonderful Italian food to enjoy everything my rooms had to offer!
A privately guided walking tour of Siena is a must. It takes just two hours to see much of what the city has to offer, and after this orientation it is so much easier to find your way around. Our guide knew every historical fact and date, she was very knowledgeable. Siena is a magical city with an air of antique and indescribable mystery that pervades the streets. Piazza Del Campo, famous for the Palio (horse race) which takes place twice a year, 2nd July and 16th August followed by a ceremony at the Duomo (Cathedral) in honour of the Blessed virgin of the Assumption, Patron Saint of Siena, in whose honour the race is run.
It is difficult to believe that such a beautiful city was created so long ago, and without modern day technologies to design the incredibly fascinating buildings. It is thought that construction of the Duomo was started in 1136! Well, Ikea wasn’t around then!
In the heart of the Tuscan countryside, we visited the Castello Del Nero, a 5 star luxury boutique hotel near Tavarnelle Val di Pesa, in the Chianti area. The hotel was once a 12th century castle. Just twenty minutes from Florence, Siena and San Gimignano, Castello Del Nero is in the perfect spot to start exploring Tuscany. A shuttle bus operates in to Florence at scheduled times.
Dominating the Val di Pesa from every angle of the castle, the view is spectacular. The hotel has undergone a complete reconstruction, offering luxury accommodation in the fifty one and two bedroom suites. The original frescoes and vaulted ceilings are located in the guestrooms and common areas alike, exuding the charm and history of the estate it once was. All suites have a King bed and the two bedroom suite also has twins. All rooms offer the usual telephone, hairdryer, minibar, safe, satellite tv and high speed internet connection. There is even a small chapel to celebrate weddings.
The Castello Del Nero is apparently renowned for its “La Torre” Restaurant, which offers a gastronomic experience where guests can savour the signature dishes of the Chef, which are based on Mediterranean and Tuscan flavours. Shame we only had time to sample lunch, but it was absolutely superb, and if I spent more than a day there, I would have to make full use of the free bicycles! Light lunches can also be served around the pool, which has stunning views across the vast countryside, to the mountains beyond.
For recreation, (apart from the bikes) there are two tennis courts, a state of the art gym, an outdoor heated swimming pool, and, of course, a wonderful SPA where all sorts of personalised treatments are offered. Time permitting I could have brought body and soul back together, it they had ever parted!
So, after a gastronomic lunch washed down with copious amounts of fine Tuscan wine, it was back in the minibus for the short journey to Florence.
Quick drop off at the Helvetia e Bristol to freshen up and off on a walking tour of Florence. Well, I thought Siena was beautiful, but Florence is stunning, not just the incredible architecture, built without the aid of computers (!) but inside the many palaces, churches and museums. It is not difficult to understand why the city inspired so many of the nation’s famous people, Michelangelo, Botticelli and Galileo to name but a few. Florence is a living museum, yet it is vibrant and sophisticated and shops are real retail therapy.
We visited the Piazza del Duomo (how sad is this, I only knew of this cathedral after making a 3-D jigsaw), the San Marco Museum, a former monastery, Ponte Vecchio, built over the river Arno, resplendent with its jewellery shops, the Piazza del Repubblica, and finally the Uffizzi Gallery. By now the pace was beginning to slacken and the drone of our tour guide around the gallery was sending us all into a trance, so we headed back to the hotel for a quick site inspection before dinner.
The Helvetia e Bristol is equally as well situated as the Grand Continental in Siena, just stepping out of the entrance you are straight in to the bustle of the Florence thoroughfare. Once in the lobby, time changes pace and we are again transported to another bygone era, some hundred years past. Words fail me. I cannot describe the sumptuous grandeur of this tardis, or the feeling that I am treading in the footsteps of many leading figures of days gone by, admiring as they would have done, the sheer splendour of this “urban villa”.
As it was once a villa with vast outdoor living areas, much has now been enclosed, creating the Hostaria Bibendum and the Winter Garden, such beautiful light and airy places to take breakfast, lunch and afternoon tea. Every bedroom, of which there are sixty seven, is different. All are lavishly furnished, with period furniture and textiles of strikingly different colours and patterns, combining old world charm and modern convenience.
I was not lucky enough to be given a Deluxe suite this time, but had to “slum it” in a Superior suite instead. Not really a short straw though! I had the best night’s sleep in a long time, and it was not until breakfast the following morning that Patricia let slip about the haunting….ssshh.
We had a sumptuous breakfast, but by now had learned to pace ourselves, leaving space for the next meal…lunch at the Villa Mangiacane.
With only twenty six rooms, from Classic to Royal Suite, you can expect to be pampered. This is a five star property steeped in art and history, once again with sweeping views across the Tuscan countryside from the terraces. There are three swimming pools and dining options from a picnic in the vineyard to the loggia in the private restaurant. Plasma TV, with surround sound, Internet access and full minibar come as standard in all rooms. Such is life. The hotel was closed for refurbishment due to open with two weeks of our visit, and it is a shame that we did not get the opportunity to view Mangiacane in its full glory.
All roads lead to Rome, and so it was that we said our farewell to this beautiful countryside, and made our way by train (only First Class of course) to Rome.
I fully intended to make full use of the casual sightseeing from the train window, and got an excellent view as we left the station, then a great view as we pulled in to Rome. What there was in between I guess will have to wait for another visit – I fell asleep, along with the rest of the group, apparently! We were met by taxi for a quick tour of Rome before checking in to the hotel. Unfortunately there was a demonstration outside the Vatican and we could not get within a mile of it. Promise to get up early and make a visit…. Coliseum is smaller than expected, but still a sight to behold. We then went to see Rome’s best kept secret, but it wouldn’t be a secret if I told you what it was, would it?!! Let’s just say we had to wait in a queue around 20 minutes and then take a peek! Ha.
Our room for the night, Hotel d’Inghilterra, is situated in the heart of the city, within about 2 minutes of the Spanish Steps. A5 star property with 6 star service. There are only 89 rooms, of which 3 are Royal Suites, and guess who was lucky enough to have one of them? Yep, yours truly!! Wow! The circular bath is about 6 feet in diameter! The shower has a choice of stand sit or lay down and there is a plasma TV behind the mirror! The hotel was partly refurbished in 2008, still in the style of the original, and another floor is to be closed off in 2010 for further work. There are currently 9 different room types, from Classic to Royal Suite, and we say about 18 rooms, every single one different. Although my suite was stunning, with a kitchenette, dining room, lounge, bedroom, bathroom and shower room, there was no view, whereas some of the other lower grade rooms had views across the city to St Paul’s or towards the countryside. Every room has something special.
We had a wonderful dinner, only 7 courses this time, enough to sink a ship, followed by a stroll through the city at night. Rome is vibrant at night, so many people just walking and watching, and eating…oh no! more food!! They were still eating at 2am!! We spent time at the Trevi Fountain and the Piazza Navona, out to the Tiber, and then called it a night.
Early morning, up with the lark, thought I’d take a –walk in the park! (No guesses who sang that)…too late to walk to the Vatican, so took to the steps – Spanish Steps. We had great discussions as to why they are called Spanish, and the relevance of the fact that the steps are in groups of 12, disciples, perhaps? No one knew. So next, en route to the airport, one more hotel visit, in Frascati, about 5 miles away.
Park Hotel Villa Grazioli, built around 1580, is in a beautiful hillside position overlooking Rome, but I have to say at the time of our visit was looking very tired and unloved. The walls and ceilings of all the rooms had once been lavishly decorated by 17th century painters, but now in desperate need of restoration. The only rooms we saw that have been restored are in the annex, and quite honestly could have been anywhere. However, the property has huge potential and I am quite sure that once the restoration work has been completed, it will be ranked amongst the best in Italy.
Sadly, all good things must come to an end and we had to leave for the airport after a sumptuous lunch at the Villa Grazioli. The fortunate part of the return trip was that we just couldn’t eat anymore, so the BA snack box was left unopened!!
I truly am so very grateful to Kirker, for the invitation to join the Fam trip to destinations I may never have had the opportunity to visit, a weekend that will remain in my memory for a long time, it was a wonderful experience. And of course, my thanks go to James and Karen for allowing me the privilege.
Thanks, Guys!
Angela
Angela travelled courtesy of Kirker Holidays, Escorted Tours and Cultural Breaks, prices from £699 pp.